Boundless Abundance: !ndia: Delhi and into the Desert

After much anticipation, I now find myself present in what has long been a distant destination in my imagination—nine months after leaving home I arrived on the subcontinent, in the final country of my journey and a culture intensely dissimilar to that of my roots—hello India! It’s the dissimilarity that drew my curiosity, both to perceive a totally different approach to going about the shared experience we call life, and to observe what the context of deep contrast brings forth in my self.

Since walking out the Delhi airport India has been a six senses bombardment: the beauty of pastel textiles, intricate shrines, expansive landscapes and a deep heritage of devoted tradition; bright smiles against dark skin; sunsets that set the smoggy sky a blaze, casting a temporary rose hue on the in your face poverty and pollution on the streets below; most everything is dirty and in disrepair but with so much character; everywhere there is life.

The aroma of spice concoctions simmering over wooden fires drifts through the air; tandoors turn out freshly baked flatbreads from their walls while skewered chunks of meat sizzle in the center with the brunt of the coal’s heat; sweet beedi smoke, cigarettes of the common man, weave the street scene together; the heavy smell of large bundles of incense trialing curly tails of pungent smoke is punctuated by the lighter fragrance of Primrose petals, both left as offerings to the gods; and as your nose pauses to linger with an enjoyable scent the breeze changes, only slightly, and your inhale is halted to a gag with wafts of urine or fecal matter ripened in the sun.

From the distance songs of prayer from a temple, or maybe mosque, are carried high in the air and then drop, through the ambient noise with amazing clarity to your ears; a flurry of rickshaws motor by at a low rumble, each repeatedly squawking his horn, weaving about in the winnerless race of forward progress; tea stand owners singingly advertise their offerings; vendors and potential customers dramatically exchange bids in search of a settling price; and a camel pulling a cart past lowers his head to let out a lip-rippling guttural groan, probably out of discontent over the rein-laden bar though his nose.

Feel the moisture on your skin as all your pours seem to exhale in unison below the ever-present blanket of heat; packed streets, packed transit, packed restaurants and packed bazaars—the western concept of personal space is nonexistent; stiff mattresses and bumpy rickshaw rides; food poisoning, deep purging, gut-wrenching cramps and drenched nights with strange fever induced dreams; air-conditioning and a cold shower has never felt so good.

All of your taste buds are invited to play with the spicy curries, creamy cottage cheese, rich masalas, heavily seasoned meats, buttery breads, pickled chutneys, deep-fried street food, poor renditions of western dishes, sweet lassies, salty lime sodas, fruit shakes, fresh juices, hot teas and cold cold bottled water.

And then there is that other way of knowing that science still can’t quite explain—the insight or intuition that doesn’t stem from the lower five senses—often celled listening to your gut but maybe more accurately it’s the voice of the heart. Wherever it originates India is quick to put you in touch with it, navigating the landscape of potential cons and hustles: shady commission-earning rickshaw drivers spinning lies and empty promises; seemingly helpful strangers with ulterior motives; cute kids with sticky fingers; bogus tourist taxes, bait and switch deals and fake merchandise. In a barter culture where nearly every price is flexible if you don’t learn to see through the bluffs and misdirection it’s always at your cost. And there’s the hints of inner guidance—feeling a left or right turn when wandering a maze of allies that lands you in an exceptional tea stall, food spot or conversation. As I’ve become a better listener possibilities seem to expand and intentions materialize with greater fluidity and ease—the country has become so much more enjoyable.

With my brother Adam, who had studied in the south of the country earlier in the year, and my good buddy from college Nick, as travel companions we plan to spend the next three months exploring the northern region of the country. We flew into Delhi the same day massive protects against government corruption broke out and after four days things were escalating quickly as people poured into the city to join the demonstration. Everything was peaceful but we decided to skip town before a flash-point was reached--we hopped a bus and headed southwest into the desert of Rajasthan.

I have to say, an attempt to distill and somehow convey all that is India is in a blog post will always be hopelessly incomplete—here’s a small taste at best. Injoy!