I spent 7 nights in the backcountry on a solo "tramp," (the kiwi term for backpacking) in the awesome Nelson Lakes NP. After a big storm the first night which blew out the rivers and thrashed the trial, Gaia gifted me spotless sunshine for the rest of the adventure. NZ has endless well marked trails (or "tracks" as they call them) into its unspoiled country. You can drink the water from the streams without treatment, there are no dangerous plants or animals and solitude is common even on "busy" tracks. This walk with a heavy pack took me to some of the most beautiful spots I've ever been and I was fortunate to cross paths with the biggest trout of my life. Mission success to say the least!!
I started my trip on the far shore (in the distance to the right) and walked the length of lake the first day racing an incoming storm
I set up camp just as it started to rain. It poured all night and I awoke next to this angry river overflowing its banks.
A view of the trail out--the river surrounded me, I was on an island.
The 16 hours of rain broke records--the lake rose a few feet overnight submerging the dock pictured above.
Beech forest trail
Lake-side "hut"--these shelters are all very common throughout the backcountry, though their amenities vary widely. This flashy large one has 40 bunks and a wood burning stove which gave me the opportunity to dry out after the storm.
Muddy Sabine River
The rain got the waterfall pumping
Above tree-line...finally
Nearing the top of the Sabine River
Blue Lake--headwaters of the Sabine
Trekking poles borrowed from the beech forest.
A much needed dinner cooking after 10 grueling hours on a storm thrashed trial.
BLUE Lake!
Looking back towards my previous night's camp as I climb toward the pass the next morning.
Getting alpine
Making it happen in my wading boots
Taking a brake before making the final push to the summit--looking down the Sabine watershed I walked up the day before.
The saddle
Summit!
Dropping off the backside--my pass in the distance
D'Urville River Valley
Swing bridge over a CLEAR D'urville...I was pretty excited!
My attempt to keep the hordes of sandflies out of my shelter--not entirely successful
A night in this hut gave me a much needed reprieve from the bloody sandflies
Inside the hut
Bunks in the hut
Stepping out of the trees to cross a large meadow a screeching call sounded from the trees above. Scanning the canopy I couldn't locate its origin until I found myself looking into a pair of eyes between folded wings bearing barreling toward my head. Ducking behind my walking sticks wings noisily ripped the air a short ways above my head as the bird pulled out of its dive--its message was clear and I moved with haste toward the far trees. As I closed the 150 yard gap to shelter the bird took four more diving passes while continually voicing its discontent with my presents. I was able to snap this photo hiding behind a bush before making the final dash into the trees while laughing to myself: "did that just happen?!"
Beastie backcountry trout--icing on the cake!
Lower D'urville
SANDFLIES!!! The bane of my backcountry existence
Sandfly coverage after sitting still for a minute--this literary wears on your sanity.
Bridge
Beech roots--typical trial terrain
Beech trees are pretty cool.
There are no native mammal in NZ--these traps are a common sight, set to catch rats and stotes that diminish local bird populations.
The tussock flats of the high-country
My last camp below the beeches
No comments:
Post a Comment