Organized Chaos

To the Western mind that finds comfort in categorical separation and well defined rules, the roads of Vietnam are an overwhelming free for all--the concept of lanes to divide types or directions of traffic, and in many places stop lights or signs to choreography the flow, simply don't exist. Motorbikes drive on the sidewalks and up the wrong side of the road, weaving through traffic and charting paths through intersections wherever they physically fit. Bicycles causally ride in the thick of multi-lane traffic and pedestrians ford as they please. What appears as chaos at a glace actually has structure, thought the principles it organizes by are quite different than roads in the West. There is a hierarchy for yielding based on size and maneuverability with buses, trucks and cars at the top, then motorbikes, bicycles on down to pedestrians. The larger vehicles, which are a vast minority, are basically free to driver anywhere on the road's surface and everyone else works around them. Horns are key to the functioning of this pecking-order, they're the means of communication, and many buses and trucks have multiple horns with different tones, each carrying a different meaning. 

Rush Hour, Saigon 

With the lack of well defined rules there seems to be far less personal entitlement among drivers, everyone is honking and cutting everyone else off but I'm yet to really experience road rage. With the inherent level of chaos drivers are forced to go slower but they spend very little time sitting still which translates to greater fuel economy, less emissions and I would think, on average, shorter ride times to desired destination compared to stop and go driving.

Typical Intersection, Saigon

Many motorbikes don't have rear-view mirrors, the driver's focus is on forward motion and reacting to what lies ahead--those behind react to those in front of them and it all seems to work as the herd moves forward. Instead of checking for space when changing lanes or merging motorbike drivers just make the move and the drivers behind adjust accordingly. 

Hanoi Streets

A move like this is totally acceptable in the middle of five lanes of traffic

Bicycles comfortably ride mid-road--an interesting contrast to America where many people don't feel safe riding in well defined bike lanes.  

Vietnam is a motorbike culture 

Non-linear, organic organizing

Crossing the road as a pedestrian in Vietnam is rush, though admittedly a bit nerve-wracking at first. If you stand on the curb waiting for a gap you'll be there all day, you have to just go for it. Wading out into the flow the key is keeping constant forward motion so the motorbikes can pace you and go around--you have to trust them, they won't hit you unless you freeze up or act erratically. Cars on the other hand don't have the same capability for lateral motion, especially in a heavy flow of motor bikes--if your on foot it's your obligation to pause and let them pass. You have to watch out for cab drivers that get their jollies taking close passes at outwardly uncomfortable tourist mid-stream. I watched a blind man saunter up to edge of a road, raise his cane above his head and proceed across five lanes thick traffic without a hitch. After a couple weeks in the country the dance becomes second nature.